Title: Why waves break near shore
Demo topic: How ocean waves are created

Source URLs:
- NOAA Ocean Exploration, "What causes ocean waves?": https://oceanexplorer.noaa.gov/ocean-fact/waves/
- NOAA National Weather Service Marine Weather Services, "Coastal Waters Forecasts With Wave Detail": https://www.weather.gov/marine/wavedetail

Main idea:
Waves often break near shore because the water becomes shallow and the seafloor interferes with the lower part of the wave's motion.

What changes near shore:
In deeper water, the lower part of a surface wave can move more freely. As the wave moves into shallow water, the bottom of the wave begins to feel the seafloor. The lower part slows down, while the upper part keeps moving forward.

Why the crest falls:
As the lower part slows, the wave becomes steeper. Eventually the crest becomes unstable and topples forward. That is when the wave breaks.

Energy release:
Breaking waves release and dissipate energy in the surf zone. This is why the shoreline can be noisy, foamy, and turbulent even when the same swell looked smooth offshore.

Key facts:
- Waves change when they enter shallow water.
- The seafloor slows and disturbs the lower part of the wave.
- The wave steepens and the crest eventually breaks.
- Breaking waves release energy near shore.

Research-report use:
This note should support the section explaining what happens after wind-created waves travel toward land.
